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Samuel Butler once said that a chicken was an egg's only
way of making another egg. Which came first in the order of creation
is not really an important issue. What concerns us is that eggs figure
more prominently in our diets than any other single food.
Eaten in a variety of ways for breakfast, eggs also make many a fine
luncheon dish (such as souffles or omelets). Without eggs, most sauces
would be impossible to make and desserts such as pies, cakes, puddings,
sauces and souffles would be mere shadows of themselves. If that is
not enough to demonstrate their importance to dining, eggs are also
used in salads, sandwiches, stuffings, pancakes and breads.
So important are eggs to our eating habits that they are most appreciated
when we have to do without them. Ghenghis Khan had one of his cooks
executed when he failed to produce breakfast eggs three days in a row;
when he was in exile on Elba, Napoleon Bonaparte broke down and cried
when a pet cat ate the last three eggs in his larder; and Oscar Wilde
wrote to a friend that "I have been reduced to such poverty that
I cannot even afford an egg with my breakfast".
During the Second World War, when eggs were severely rationed in Britain,
the most valued gift guests could bring their hosts was a pair of freshly
laid eggs nestling in a padded box. In Israel, during the period of
rationing, when most people were reduced to eating powdered eggs there
was a burgeoning black market in fresh eggs. Those were kinder days,
however, and most people saved whatever fresh eggs that came their way
for the children and the old folks.
Alas, however, for the egg has come upon evil days. With the growing
awareness that too much cholesterol is a bad thing, the egg has been
singled out as a destroyer of health and well-being. Gone forever are
the days of those heroic men and women who would down six fried eggs
for breakfast, a four-egg omelet for lunch and a six-egg dessert souffle
after dinner. All of which is not entirely fair. Dietetically, fresh
eggs are an almost complete food. They contains easily assimilable proteins,
fats, Vitamins A, B, D and E (only Vitamin C is absent), an appreciable
amount of iron and a number of valuable mineral salts. From the medical
point of view, it is probably true that normal input should be limited
to two or three eggs weekly. From the gastronomic point of view, let
it suffice to say that whatever eggs we eat should be prepared with
love.
Creamed Eggs
2 Tbsp. chicken fat or vegetable shortening (believe me though, the
dish is better with chicken fat)
2 large tomatoes, peeled, chopped and well drained
1 medium onion, chopped
1/4 cup breadcrumbs
8 hard boiled eggs, halved lengthwise
1/4 cup each sweet cream and grated cheddar cheese
2 Tbs. butter
1 egg yolk, lightly beaten
salt and pepper to taste
In a large heavy skillet heat the fat or shortening and in this saute
together the tomatoes and onions for 5 minutes. Add the remaining ingredients
(except the hard boiled eggs) and simmer gently, covered, for 15 minutes.
Distribute the hard boiled eggs on the top and serve at once. (Serves
4 or 8).
Baked Eggs - Oeufs en Cocotte
3 or 4 small chicken livers
2 Tbsp. butter
1 egg per portion
salt to taste
Singe the chicken livers over an open flame and then chop the livers
coarsely. In a saucepan melt 3 tsp. of the butter
and in this saute the liver bits until nicely browned.
Melt the remaining butter. With this lightly grease small ramekins and
into each carefully break a single egg. Sprinkle lightly with salt and
then with the remaining butter or margarine. Bake in a medium oven for
8 - 9 minutes and then sprinkle over the sauteed chicken liver bits.
Cheese Souffle
1 cup butter
1/4 cup flour, sifted
salt and pepper to taste
1/2 tsp. dry mustard
dash Tabasco sauce
1 1/2 cups milk
125 gr. Gruyere or sharp cheddar cheese, grated
8 eggs, separated
Generously grease the bottom and sides of a souffle dish with butter
and then coat the buttered surfaces with a dusting of flour. Preheat
the oven to hot.
In a double boiler over boiling water melt the butter and to this add
the flour, salt, pepper, mustard and Tabasco. Mix well and gradually
stir in the milk. Cook, stirring constantly, until the sauce thickens.
Into this slowly add the cheese, stirring regularly until well melted
and the mixture is uniform. Remove from the heat. Beat the egg yolks
until light and gradually pour these into the cheese sauce. (Note: To
this point the souffle may be prepared several hours in advance if the
surface is dabbed with butter, covered and refrigerated).
Dampen a beater and beat the egg whites until stiff. If the cheese mixture
has been prepared in advance reheat it to the point where it is hot
to the touch and then fold it into the egg whites. Pour the mixture
into the souffle dish and bake, in the hot oven, until the souffle has
risen and browned (about 12 - 15 minutes). Serve immediately. (Serves
6).
French Omelets
Grimod de la Reyniere, Paris' leading gastronome in the decades surrounding
the French Revolution, estimated that "they know in France 685
different ways of preparing eggs..." Then, and now, however, for
most Frenchmen the basic omelet reigns supreme. The oft-quoted advice
that "omelets are not made without breaking eggs" comes from
his contemporary, Robespierre who was, of course not referring to eggs
but to his penchant for killing off those he perceived as "enemies
of the revolution".
It is not as difficult to prepare French omelets as it might seem. One
of the tricks to use only clarified butter. To prepare the butter, simply
melt 20% more than the amount of butter needed. When completely melted,
skim and discard the froth from the surface. Let stand for 2 - 3 minutes
and then carefully pour the melted butter into a small bowl or glass,
leaving the milky solids in the pan and discarding these. Clarified
butter (Indians call it "ghee") may be used immediately or
refrigerated for several days in tightly sealed containers.
Other tips: Use absolutely clean frying pans (true devotees have pans
they use only for making omelets); beat the eggs lightly with a fork
(and not an egg beater) and only at the last moment before using; and,
unlike other egg dishes, French omelets should be cooked over a high
flame.
Basic French Omelet
Omelette Nature
4 eggs
salt and pepper to taste
2 Tbs. clarified butter
In a small bowl using a dinner fork, beat the eggs lightly with the
salt and pepper.
In a 9" (23 cm) omelet pan melt the butter, rolling the butter
over the bottom and sides of the pan. When the butter is heated through
and bubbling but not yet brown, add the eggs. Agitate the pan forward
and backward allowing the eggs to slide as a mass over the pan bottom
just until the eggs begin to thicken. Quickly pull the egg mixture from
the sides to the center of the pan so that the uncooked portion flows
to the side. Continue until the omelet is nearly cooked to taste (30
- 50 seconds). During the last 10 - 15 seconds of cooking do not stir
the mixture which will allow the bottom to brown.
Have a hot serving plate ready. To fold the omelet, hold the pan in
one hand and tip slightly towards the body. With a fork fold over the
edge of the omelet nearest the handle and then half roll, half slide
the omelet onto the serving plate so that it lands on the plate folded
in three, folded side down. If the omelet sticks give the handle of
the pan a sharp rap with the fist. Serve immediately. (Serves 2).
Note: In making French style omelets, never cook more than 4 eggs at
a time. Because they prepare so quickly it is not difficult to prepare
2 or 3 omelets one after the other.
Herbed Omelet
Omelette aux Fines Herbes
4 eggs
2 Tbsp. clarified butter
1/2 tsp. each fresh parsley, chives, chervil and tarragon, all chopped
(dried herbs may be substituted)
pinch each of salt and pepper
Make this omelet as you would the omelette nature (above), adding and
mixing in the herbs immediately after beating the eggs together with
the salt and pepper.
Cheese Omelet
Omelette au Fromage
4 eggs
2 Tbsp. clarified butter
salt and peper to taste
3 Tbsp. Gruyere cheese, grated
Prepare the omelet as you would for omelette nature (above) and, during
the last 10 - 15 second of cooking sprinkle over the cheese. Do not
stir after the cheese has been added and fold as you would any other
French omelet. mushrooms
Mushroom Omelet
Omelette aux Champignons
4 Tbsp. clarified butter
125 gr. champignon mushrooms, sliced
2 tsp. flour
3 Tbsp. chicken stock or, for kashrut, vegetable stock
4 Tbsp. sweet cream
1/2 tsp. lemon juice
salt and pepper to taste
4 eggs
In a small skillet melt half the butter and in this saute the mushrooms
until tender. Stir in the flour and stock and stirring constantly, cook
for 2 - 3 minutes before stirring in the sweet cream, lemon juice and
salt and pepper to taste.
Prepare the omelet as you would for omelette nature (above) and, during
the last 10 - 15 second of cooking spoon the mushrooms over the omelet.
Do not stir after the mushrooms have been added.
Spanish Omelets
Tortillas Espanolas
Spanish tortillas or omelets are versatile fare. They may be served
hot or cold; may be eaten with fork and knife or by folding and holding
in the hand or even between slices of bread as a sandwich. Although
such omelets vary in content and style from locale to locale and even
from household to household, the basic rules for the making of tortillas
are simple. The filling is sauteed in oil or butter and then beaten
eggs are added and fried on one side. When the first side is done the
omelet is turned over to allow the second side to cook.
Spaniards are torn between the best way to do this. Some insist that
the best method is to place a plate on top of the omelet when it is
ready to be turned, flipping over the skillet and plate together and
then sliding the omelet back to the skillet on its second side. Others
insist on using two greased skillets and, when the omelet is ready to
be turned, to preheat the second, empty skillet, put this over the first
and simply reverse the two together. It is really nothing more than
a matter of personal choice. For 4-egg omelets, these are some of the
filling combinations that may be used:
2 medium potatoes, cut into thin match-stick shapes
1 small onion, chopped finely
or
6 asparagus tips, chopped coarsely
1 medium potato, chopped coarsely
1 sliced chorizo sausage, chopped coarsely
or
1 cup artichoke hearts, chopped coarsely
or
1 cup peas
or
6 slices of chorizo sausage, chopped coarsely or cubed
or
2 sweet red peppers, skinned, seeded and chopped
1 tomato, skinned seeded and chopped
In a skillet melt olive oil or butter and in this saute the filling
ingredients so that they become tender but not brown.
In a mixing bowl beat together the eggs with salt and pepper to taste
and add these to the skillet. Turn the omelet so that both sides are
cooked. Each of these omelets will serve 2 - 4.
Spanish Fried Eggs
Huevos Fritos
1 - 2 eggs per portion
olive oil and butter, in equal proportions, as required
salt and pepper to taste
In a heavy skillet heat together the oil and butter at least 1/2 inch
(1 cm.) deep until the oil is very hot. Into this break a maximum of
2 eggs at a time and, using a large spoon, quickly fold the edges of
the egg whites over the yellow, forming a circle. Over this spoon the
hot oil and cook until the eggs begin to brown around the edges (the
entire process should take about 1 minute).
Remove the eggs with a slotted spoon or spatula and let drain briefly
on absorbent toweling. Serve piping hot sprinkled over with salt and
pepper to taste.
Spanish Style Garlic Fried Eggs
Huevos Fritos al Ajillo
8 Spanish fried eggs (see recipe above)
4 pimientos, cut in strips
8 cloves garlic, sliced thinly
3 Tbs. olive oil
1 Tbs. vinegar
1 tsp. paprika
salt to taste
country style bread for serving
butter for serving
Prepare the fried eggs as instructed in the recipe above and when the
eggs are ready set aside on preheated serving plates to keep warm.
Pour off the oil and add the 3 tbs. of fresh olive oil to the skillet.
Heat and in this saute the pimientos lightly and arrange decoratively
around the eggs. In the oil saute the garlic until barely browned. Remove
from the flame and let stand 2 - 3 minutes. Add the vinegar and paprika
and cook over a low flame, stirring for 2 - 3 minutes longer, adding
a little water if the skillet dries out. Sprinkle the eggs with salt,
pour the garlic sauce over and serve hot with bread and butter. Serves
4.
Souffle au Grand Marnier
A classic French dessert dish
2/3 cup sugar
8 egg yolks, lightly beaten
1/2 cup Grand Marnier liqueur
10 egg whites
1/4 tsp. cream of tartar
butter for greasing, as required
flour for dusting, as required
In the top part of a double boiler, over but not in hot water, beat
together the sugar and egg yolks until the mixture is smooth and forms
a broad ribbon as it runs from a lifted spoon. Add the Grand Marnier
and immediately transfer the mixture to a bowl over ice and there continue
to beat until the mixture is cooled.
In a separate bowl combine the egg whites and cream of tartar and beat
until stiff but not dry. Fold the egg yolk mixture intothe beaten whites
and then transfer the mixture to an 8" (20 cm) souffle dish that
has been well greased and then dusted lightly with sugar. Bake in a
hot oven until done (12 - 15 minutes). Serve at once. (Serves 6 - 8).
Fruit Omelet
Omelette aux Confitures
2 egg yolks, beaten until light
1/4 cup confectioners' sugar
1/2 tsp. vanilla extract
4 egg whites, whipped stiff but not dry
2 Tbsp. clarified butter
preserves of strawberries, raspberries, or blueberries, for serving
confectioners' sugar for serving
Into the beaten egg yolks gradually beat in the confectioners' sugar.
To this mixture add the vanilla and then fold in the stiff egg whites.
Make the omelet as you would an omelette nature (see earlier recipe).
As soon as the omelet is transferred to a serving plate sprinkle over
with confectioners' sugar and serve at once with the preserves in a
small serving bowl. (Serves 2).
Banana Omelet
A Hawaiian recipe
3/4 cup fresh breadcrumbs
1/2 cup light cream
2 egg yolks, beaten lightly
2 Tbsp. sugar
1/4 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. vanilla extract
1 cup bananas, chopped
2 egg whites, beaten stiff
2 Tbsp. butter
In a mixing bowl soak the breadcrumbs in the cream for 5 minutes. In
this order stir in the egg yolks, sugar, salt, vanilla and bananas.
Fold in the egg whites.
In a 9" (23 cm.) heavy skillet melt the butter and into this turn
the banana mixture. Bake in a medium hot oven until the
omelet is puffed and gently browned (about 10 minutes). (Serves 2 or
4).
© Daniel Rogov
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