The merest mention of the Ermitage Le Pavillon of M. Chapoutier is enough to make wine lovers the world over raise their eyebrows in respect. Among the greatest wines not only of the Rhone Valley but all of France, and made entirely from Syrah grapes grown on the vines that are between 70 - 80 years old in the small vineyard at Tain-l'Hermitage, these are wines that in the best of years are destined to live for fifty or even more years. Although there are remarkable differences in the wine from year to year, all have certain things in common. When first poured, all have a deep earthy-herbal aroma that within minutes gives way to a bouquet of ripe black fruits and tar.
At their best, these deep, complex and remarkably intense full bodied wines, are quite expensive but, considering their greatness and that they are produced in relatively small quantities (rarely exceeding 7,500 bottles), they are almost always near the top of the buying lists of connoisseurs. Although at their very best with large cuts of beef or game meats, the La Pavillon wines are also ideally suited to platters of well aged cheese.

Chapoutier must have an especially warm spot in his heart for Israel for it was here, several weeks ago that a one-time only tasting of the Le Pavillon wines from the years 1991 - 2000 was held. The wines had been shipped especially to the importer, The Scottish Company and the tasting was hosted at the Derekh ha Yain wine store in Tel Aviv. Because the last two existing bottles of the 1991 wine, taken from the personal cellars of the Chapoutier family were opened for the tasting, this is an event that will never be duplicated again. With the exception of the 1991 wine and that of 2000 which has not yet been released for sale, the wines are available only at the branches of Derkeh ha Yain.

M. Chapoutier, Ermitage Le Pavillon, 2000 (Barrel Tasting): Still in its infancy, this deep purple, this still bombastic and remarkably powerful wine shows a remarkable potential for greatness. Remarkably elegant for a wine so concentrated and tannic, look for deep plum, spice, vanilla and mint flavors and aromas during the wine's first decade. As the wine develops longer in the bottle, you will find raspberry, tar and vanilla sneaking in comfortably. The wine will be released in about two more years. Drink from 2008 - 2040. Score 96.

M. Chapoutier, Ermitage Le Pavillon, 1999: So deep in color that you will compare it to black ink this exquisite wine is loaded with minerals, smoky oak, currant and violet aromas and flavors. Full bodied, heavy and elegant all at the same time, this superb wine will develop beautifully in the bottle. So young it would be a sin to drink it now, the wine will drink beautifully from 2010 - 2030 or longer. Score 97.

M. Chapoutier, Ermitage Le Pavillon, 1998: Between deep purple and garnet red, when first poured the wine shows cepe mushrooms and earthy aromas, that soon integrate nicely with fresh red and black fruit, smoke and leather flavors. With deep tannins that are perfectly balanced by depth of fruit and flavors that linger seemingly without end on the palate, this is as close to a perfect wine as you will find. The wine will be at its peek from 2010 - 2050. Score 99.

M Chapoutier, Ermitage Le Pavillon, 1997: Another beautiful example of a wine that is first poured shows primarily earthy, tar-like aromas and then opens in the glass, almost miraculously, to reveal a complex array wild berry, nutty, eucalyptus and tobacco aromas and flavors. Full bodied, concentrated and with a remarkably long finish (look for flavors of tea and anise to develop on the palate after the wine has been swallowed), the wine will be at its best between 2007 - 2030 or longer. Score 97.

M. Chapoutier, Ermitage Le Pavillon, 1996: So deep purple in color is this wine that one is tempted to think of it as inky black and almost opaque. After fifteen minutes in the glass the wine begins to open, revealing concentrated flavors of sweet currants, cedar wood and forest mushrooms. Give it another fifteen minutes and you will perceive smoky, spring flower and berry flavors and aromas. Deep and concentrated and with still firm tannins, this extremely well balanced wine will be most approachable between 2010 - 2040. Score 98.

M. Chapoutier, Ermitage Le Pavillon, 1995: Deep royal purple in color, with layer after layer of black fruit, grassy, mineral and herbal flavors and aromas, this deep, concentrated and powerful but very well balanced and rich wine opens beautifully on the palate. Still young but already opening to reveal its glory, this is a wine to drink from 2005 until the middle of the century. Score 97+.

M. Chapoutier, Ermitage Le Pavillon, 1994: Lower in tannins and just a bit more delicate than many of its brothers and sisters, but still concentrated and deep, this rich, complex wine demonstrates great depth of blackberry, currant and herbal flavors and aromas, all of which linger beautifully on the palate. Complex and full bodied, the wine is drinking well now but will cellar nicely until 2025 - 2030, revealing increasing elegance as it continues to develop. Score 95.

M. Chapoutier, Ermitage Le Pavillon, 1993: 1993 was a problematic harvest year for the Rhone Valley and this wine falls just the "wrong side of greatness". Somewhat overly acidic and lacking the depth of the truly superb Ermitage wines, but still full bodied, deep royal purple in color and with plenty of almost sweet red fruit and herbal flavors, the wine is drinking well now but seems to have peaked. Drink now or in the near future. Score 88.

M. Chapoutier, Ermitage Le Pavillon, 1992: Almost impenetrably black in color, this powerful, full-bodied and multi-layered wine opens beautifully on the palate to reveal intense black fruit, blackcurrants and musky aromas. Still tannic, but opening beautifully as it develops, you will also find plenty of tobacco, pepper and tobacco flavors and aromas here. The wine is approachable now and already revealing its elegance but it will be fully ready only in 2005 - 2006. Look forward to celebrating this extraordinarily deep and complex wine until 2025 - 2030. Score 98.

M. Chapoutier, Ermitage Le Pavillon, 1991: So rich that it might be thought of as opulent, this may be the perfect Syrah. Perhaps a bit lighter than its more recent brothers and sisters but still powerful and loaded with tannins, with an ink-black color and with rich plum, blackcurrant, smoky, licorice and tobacco flavors, this is a wine that changes from minute to minute in the glass, each moment making it seem more and more decadent. A wine to luxuriate over, and still magnificent in a glorious combination of youth and maturity. Drink now or until 2040. Score 99+.

© Daniel Rogov