Rogov's Ramblings
What Wine With What Fish

 

Even though one of the most marvelous qualities of wines is that they go so well with food, some people are put off by what they think is the mystique that has grown up over the years surrounding the way in which wines are selected. The question of selecting the proper wines to serve with different foods is one that intrigues many and intimidates others. At one extreme are those gourmets who are so concerned with the nuances of food and wine that they adhere to a rigid set of rules about which wine is precisely the right accompaniment for each dish. On the other hand, there are those who claim that any wine goes with any food.

The realities of both food and wine tell us that neither of these styles of decision making is a good one. Those who stay strictly within the rules lose out by never having the opportunity to experiment and discover new combinations. Those who simply throw away the rules often pay the price by drinking a wine that overpowers the taste of a delicate dish or of eating a highly spiced dish that kills the flavor of the light wine they have selected.

The truest lovers of wine and food know that a certain amount of experimentation and even playfulness is often in order. They also realize that many of the procedures used in selecting the right wine exist for sound reasons, and before they set out to be playful, an understanding of the rules can add to the wine experience and, whether at home or in a restaurant can make the difference between a routine occasion and an event rich with enjoyment.

The most important general rule in the selection of wines to accompany a meal is that the wines should complement the food and the food should accentuate and blend with the qualities of the wines. Although the long-standing rule of white wine with fish and white meat and red wine with red meat has some notable exceptions, most people seem to find it appropriate most of the time.

Following are several guidelines that may prove useful in selecting the right wines for the simplest or the most complex of fish and seafood meals. Not all of these combinations will please true wine snobs but those with a bit of culinary courage will find many of these to their taste.

A Sea Full of Fish Dishes

Anchovies Sauvignon Blanc, Pouilly-Fume
Calamari, (squid) fried Sauvignon Blanc, Muscadet
Ceviche and Carpaccio Sauvignon Blanc
Clams or Mussels in White Wine Muscadet de Sevre et Maine, Chardonnay, light Pinot Noir, Beaujolais
Cod and Baccala Sauvignon Blanc
Cold Fish Salads Rose wines or sparkling wines
Crabs Chablis, Chardonnay, Riesling
Fish and Chips Dry Rose, Chenin Blanc, Orvietto
Fish in Butter orHollandaise Sauce Soave Classico, Pinot Grigio, Spanish whites from Rioja and Penedes
Fish in Cream Sauce White Burgundies, Sauvignon Blanc, oaked Chardonnay
Fisn Mousses or Souffles Sweet wines from Sauternes, Barsac or Hungarian Tokay, Gewurztraminer
Fish Pates Chablis, Chenin Blanc, Mosel wines, Gewurztraminer
Fish Stews Red wines such as Merlot or Cote Rotie
Fish Stews with Aioli or other Garlic Sauces Muscadet, Pinot Bianco, Trebbiano, Chenin Blanc
Fish with Mushrooms Red wines such as Pinot Noir, any Beaujolais wine or heavily oaked Chardonnay
Fish in the Indian or Chinese Styles Dry or semi dry Gewurztraminer
Grilled Fish Light red wines such as Beaujolais Villages, Julianas, and nearly all wines based on Gamay grapes; Sauvignon Blanc
Halibut Chardonnay
Herring and Other Oily Fish Schnapps, sparkling wine, dry Sherry
Grouper, Trout, Bass Sauvignon Blanc, Fume Blanc, Pouilly Fume, oaked or unoaked Chardonnay, Chablis
Lobsters (boiled, steamed, grilled or in cream sauce) White Burgundy, oaked Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc or, if you are in a daring mood, red Zinfandel or even Brunello di Montalcino
Mussels Chardonnay, Chablis, light Burgundy and Beaujolais red
Mussels in Cream Sauce Chardonnay, Macon-Villages
Mussels in Wine Chardonnay, Muscade de Sevre et Maine
Octopus in Tomato sauce Pouilly Fume, Sauvignon Blanc
Oysters (raw) Chablis (!!!), Muscadet, Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay, Champagne
Oysters, clams, lobsters and other cooked shelfish Sauvignon Blanc, oaked Chardonnay
Salmon (Grilled) Pinot Noir, Beaujolais, red Sancerre, Chablis, Pouilly Fume
Salmon (Smoked) Chardonnay, Soave Classico, Sparkling wines
Sardines, Red Mullet Portugese vinho verde or other young unoaked whites
Scallops or Coquilles St. Jacques (Grilled) Well oaked Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc
Scallops or Coquilles St. Jacques in Butter or Hollandaise Sauce Soave Classico, Pinot Grigio, Rioja whites, unoaked Chardonnay, Rose wines
Seafood Soups (Creamed) Amontillado Sherry or Madeira
Seafood Salads Pouilly-Fume, Sauvignon Blanc
Shrimp (boiled or grilled) Unoaked Chardonnay, Maconnais, Pouilly-Fuisse
Shrimp Cocktail and Shrimps with Garlic Sauvignon Blanc, Fino Sherry, Pinot Blanc, light Pinot Noir
Smoked Fish Muscadet, Riesling, Chablis, Sancerre, Pouilly Fume, white Chateauneuf du Pape
Sole, Dover Sole and Turbot Unoaked Chardonnay, Friuli-Grave, German Riesling, Sparkling Wines
Sushi and Sashimi Dry Riesling, sparkling Blanc de Blanc
Taramasalata or Ikra Greek Retsina (if you can tolerate it) or Sauvignon Blanc
Trout with Almonds Crozes-Hermitage, Chardonnay, most German whites, Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc
Tuna or Swordfish (fresh) Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, oaked Chardonnay
Tuna or Swordfish in Pepper Sauce Cabernet Sauvignon, Brunello di Montalcino

© Daniel Rogov

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