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Even though one of the most marvelous qualities of wines is that they go so
well with food, some people are put off by what they think is the mystique that
has grown up over the years surrounding the way in which wines are selected. The
question of selecting the proper wines to serve with different foods is one that
intrigues many and intimidates others. At one extreme are those gourmets who are
so concerned with the nuances of food and wine that they adhere to a rigid set
of rules about which wine is precisely the right accompaniment for each dish.
On the other hand, there are those who claim that any wine goes with any food.
The realities of both food and wine tell us that neither of these styles of
decision making is a good one. Those who stay strictly within the rules lose out
by never having the opportunity to experiment and discover new combinations. Those
who simply throw away the rules often pay the price by drinking a wine that overpowers
the taste of a delicate dish or of eating a highly spiced dish that kills the
flavor of the light wine they have selected.
The truest lovers of wine and food know that a certain amount of experimentation
and even playfulness is often in order. They also realize that many of the procedures
used in selecting the right wine exist for sound reasons, and before they set
out to be playful, an understanding of the rules can add to the wine experience
and, whether at home or in a restaurant can make the difference between a routine
occasion and an event rich with enjoyment.
The most important general rule in the selection of wines to accompany a meal
is that the wines should complement the food and the food should accentuate and
blend with the qualities of the wines. Although the long-standing rule of white
wine with fish and white meat and red wine with red meat has some notable exceptions,
most people seem to find it appropriate most of the time.
Following are several guidelines that may prove useful in selecting the right
wines for the simplest or the most complex of fish and seafood meals. Not all
of these combinations will please true wine snobs but those with a bit of culinary
courage will find many of these to their taste.
A Sea Full of Fish Dishes
| Anchovies |
Sauvignon Blanc, Pouilly-Fume |
| Calamari, (squid) fried |
Sauvignon Blanc, Muscadet |
| Ceviche and Carpaccio |
Sauvignon Blanc |
| Clams or Mussels in White Wine |
Muscadet de Sevre et Maine, Chardonnay, light
Pinot Noir, Beaujolais |
| Cod and Baccala |
Sauvignon Blanc |
| Cold Fish Salads |
Rose wines or sparkling wines |
| Crabs |
Chablis, Chardonnay, Riesling |
| Fish and Chips |
Dry Rose, Chenin Blanc, Orvietto |
| Fish in Butter orHollandaise Sauce |
Soave Classico, Pinot Grigio, Spanish whites
from Rioja and Penedes |
| Fish in Cream Sauce |
White Burgundies, Sauvignon Blanc, oaked Chardonnay
|
| Fisn Mousses or Souffles |
Sweet wines from Sauternes, Barsac or Hungarian
Tokay, Gewurztraminer |
| Fish Pates |
Chablis, Chenin Blanc, Mosel wines, Gewurztraminer |
| Fish Stews |
Red wines such as Merlot or Cote Rotie |
| Fish Stews with Aioli or other Garlic Sauces
|
Muscadet, Pinot Bianco, Trebbiano, Chenin
Blanc |
| Fish with Mushrooms |
Red wines such as Pinot Noir, any Beaujolais
wine or heavily oaked Chardonnay |
| Fish in the Indian or Chinese Styles |
Dry or semi dry Gewurztraminer |
| Grilled Fish |
Light red wines such as Beaujolais Villages,
Julianas, and nearly all wines based on Gamay grapes; Sauvignon Blanc |
| Halibut |
Chardonnay |
| Herring and Other Oily Fish |
Schnapps, sparkling wine, dry Sherry |
| Grouper, Trout, Bass |
Sauvignon Blanc, Fume Blanc, Pouilly Fume,
oaked or unoaked Chardonnay, Chablis |
| Lobsters (boiled, steamed, grilled or in cream
sauce) |
White Burgundy, oaked Chardonnay, Sauvignon
Blanc or, if you are in a daring mood, red Zinfandel or even Brunello di Montalcino
|
| Mussels |
Chardonnay, Chablis, light Burgundy and Beaujolais
red |
| Mussels in Cream Sauce |
Chardonnay, Macon-Villages |
| Mussels in Wine |
Chardonnay, Muscade de Sevre et Maine |
| Octopus in Tomato sauce |
Pouilly Fume, Sauvignon Blanc |
| Oysters (raw) |
Chablis (!!!), Muscadet, Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay,
Champagne |
| Oysters, clams, lobsters and other cooked
shelfish |
Sauvignon Blanc, oaked Chardonnay |
| Salmon (Grilled) |
Pinot Noir, Beaujolais, red Sancerre, Chablis,
Pouilly Fume |
| Salmon (Smoked) |
Chardonnay, Soave Classico, Sparkling wines |
| Sardines, Red Mullet |
Portugese vinho verde or other young unoaked
whites |
| Scallops or Coquilles St. Jacques (Grilled)
|
Well oaked Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc |
| Scallops or Coquilles St. Jacques in Butter
or Hollandaise Sauce |
Soave Classico, Pinot Grigio, Rioja whites,
unoaked Chardonnay, Rose wines |
| Seafood Soups (Creamed) |
Amontillado Sherry or Madeira |
| Seafood Salads |
Pouilly-Fume, Sauvignon Blanc |
| Shrimp (boiled or grilled) |
Unoaked Chardonnay, Maconnais, Pouilly-Fuisse |
| Shrimp Cocktail and Shrimps with Garlic
|
Sauvignon Blanc, Fino Sherry, Pinot Blanc,
light Pinot Noir |
| Smoked Fish |
Muscadet, Riesling, Chablis, Sancerre, Pouilly
Fume, white Chateauneuf du Pape |
| Sole, Dover Sole and Turbot |
Unoaked Chardonnay, Friuli-Grave, German Riesling,
Sparkling Wines |
| Sushi and Sashimi |
Dry Riesling, sparkling Blanc de Blanc |
| Taramasalata or Ikra |
Greek Retsina (if you can tolerate it) or
Sauvignon Blanc |
| Trout with Almonds |
Crozes-Hermitage, Chardonnay, most German
whites, Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc |
| Tuna or Swordfish (fresh) |
Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, oaked Chardonnay |
| Tuna or Swordfish in Pepper Sauce |
Cabernet Sauvignon, Brunello di Montalcino
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© Daniel Rogov
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