Wine lovers who live in Switzerland are in an enviable position. They fought their last war in 1602, they live in one of the wealthiest nations of the world and their close proximity to France, Germany, and Italy provide them with easy access to many of the greatest wines in the world. Even more important, because the Swiss Franc has been so consistently strong in relation to other currencies, foreign wines have always been relatively inexpensive for Swiss buyers.

Despite their wealth and their passion for collecting great wines, the Swiss do not waste their money, and while they may drink 1949 Chateau Margaux or 1961 Romanee-Conti on special occasions, it is the very creditable wines of their own nation that they drink on an everyday basis. Even though not many Swiss wines have become well known outside of the borders of this Alpine nation (some say that Swiss wines do not travel well, others say that they are too expensive to import), many are quite good and deserving of respect.

Most good Swiss wines come from the sloping vineyards of the French speaking cantons of Vaud, Valais, Geneva and Neuchatel. The very best of these are the white wines that come from the sloping vineyards facing the right bank of the Rhone River and Lac Leman (Lake Geneva) where Chasselas is the most dominant grape varietal. If foreigners visiting Switzerland have ever been confused by the white wines of Switzerland, it is because this grape goes under four different names. In the canton of Vaud the grape is sometimes known as "Chasselas" and sometimes as "Dorin", in Geneva and Neuchatel it is thought of as "Perlan", and in Valais it is called "Fendant". Regardless of the name it carries, however, the grape produces fresh, dry, fruity wines that are relatively low in acid and high in alcohol. With a pale yellow color, a very faint sparkle and both texture and cleanliness that are impressive, the best of these are wines with real vigor, ripeness and length.

When selecting Swiss whites, the most important things to know are the name of the grape, the producer, the town and the Canton from which the wine came. At a recent tasting of more than ninety Swiss whites made from the Chasselas grape (by whichever of its names) the following, each of which will cost between $15 - 20, were by far the best I sampled.

The list is in order of my preference:

Gerard Pinget, Rivaz, Vaud: Chasselas Dezaley Renard
Jean et Pierre Testuz, Dezaley, Vaud: Chasselas l'Arbalete
Jean et Pierre Testuz, Dezaley, Vaud: Aigle Les Cigales
Charles Bonvin Fils, Sion, Valais: Fendant Sans Culotte
Gerard Pinget, Rivaz, Vaud: Chasselais St. Saphorin
Maurice Gay, Sion, Vaud: Reserve Fendant
Charles Bonvin Fils, Sion, Valais: Fendant la
Gachette Henri Badoux, Aigle, Vaud: Aigle Les Murailles

Swiss red wines are not as highly valued as their whites because the Pinot Noir grapes grown here produce a wine that is thinner and lacks the depth, body and richness of the wines of neighboring Burgundy. That does not mean that Swiss reds should be ignored, however, because the wine makers of Valais have come up with a marvelous solution - a blend of Pinot Noir and Gamay grapes that they call "Dole", the best of which are light, well rounded and exceptionally refreshing wines, especially good with fresh water fish (especially the lovely small perch found in Lake Geneva), light meat dishes and cheeses.

My selections for the best French Swiss reds, which vary in price from $12 - 20 per bottle are:

Robert Isoz, Yvorne, Vaud: Pinot Noir, Ave Maria
Charles Bonvin Fils, Sion, Valais: Dole, Clos du Chateau
Domaine Chateau Lichten: Loeche, Valais: Dole, Selection d'Or
Domaine du Mont d'Or: Pont de la Morgue: Dole de la Domaine
Henri Badoux, Aigle, Vaud: Pinot Noir

Nor, just for fun, especially while sitting outdoors at a Genevan cafe overlooking the lake, should one pass up the chance to taste the modest but charmingly light and dry Gamay wines that are produced from the vineyards stretching up the hillsides from Geneva on its French border. The two best, for my money are the Gamay produced by Pierre Villard and Vin-Union-Geneve, both of which can easily be mistaken for a young Beaujolais.

© Daniel Rogov