The fact that Beaujolais has long been considered part of the Burgundy region of wine is somewhat silly. Even though the two areas are adjacent geographically, their climate and geology are so vastly different that their wines have very little in common. Beaujolais wines are made by a method vastly different than the wines of the rest of Burgundy and, to mark the contrast even more firmly, Beujolais wines rely entirely on Gamay grapes and more than 98% of them are red. Also unlike the most serious wines of Burgundy, nearly all of the wines from Beaujolais have their greatest charm and character when they are young. Because these are wines that are light, delicious, highly perfumed, fruity and not at all tannic they are meant to be consumed young, ideally a year or two at most after their vintage. Beaujolais wines that stand in the bottle for longer than that will not spoil, but they will gain neither complexity nor depth.

There is a good chance that if you order a glass of red wine at any inn, cafe or restaurant between Macon and Lyon you will receive a glass of Beaujolais or Beaujolais-Villages. Beaujolais itself is a remarkably light wine, meant to be drunk cool and in large mouthfuls rather than in dainty sips. Wines called Beaujolais-Villages are more complex, fuller, more individual and with added character and concentration. These wines, which can legally come from any of 39 different communities are also one of France's greatest wine bargains. Both Beaujolais and Beaujolais-Villages wines should be served at between 11 - 12 degrees Celsius.

There are also ten different "crus" of Beaujolais wines, that is to say, wines that come from various communities each of whose vineyards produces wines of comparable quality and character.

• St. Amour is a small commune and the wines from here are fuller and sturdier than wines merely labeled Beaujolais or Beaujolais-Villages. A lively wine, with aromas of kirsch and spices, the wine should be served at about 13 degrees Celsius and goes especially well with dishes based on chicken, pigeon and quail.
  
  
• Regnie is the most recent commune to be entitled to its own "cru", and Brouilly and Cote de Brouilly are the oldest. The wines from each of these areas are light, lively, crisp and flowery, the first one with the marked aroma of raspberries, the second of peaches and prunes, and the third of raisins and iris flowers. Although the Cote de Brouilly is a bit heavier than the others, all are excellent with terrines, small cuts of meat and dishes served with cream sauces and all should be served at about 12 degrees Celsius.
  
  
• Moulin a Vent and Chenas are very similar wines, both fairly powerful, both with deep color and rich fruit content and both fairly expensive. They are excellent accompaniments to venison, red meats, and strong cheeses and both should be served at about 14 degrees Celsius.
  
  
• Morgon is one of the best known Beaujolais wines. Dense, rich, with a deep purple color, and an aroma of cherries, peaches and apricots, the wine is more powerful than Moulin a Vent and makes goes well with roast beef, steaks, other fine cuts of beef as well as with deer or wild boar. The wine should be served at about 14 degrees Celsius..
  
  
• Julienas is one of the few wines of Beaujolais that will benefit from 2 - 3 years in the bottle. The wine, which has considerable depth, also has a fragrant bouquet of peaches and apples and is well balanced enough that it goes nicely with chicken cooked in red wine, grilled poultry and any small cut of beef.
  
  
• Fleurie (my own favorite) is now the most expensive of the Beaujolais wines. At its best, Fleurie is a seductive wine with a medium weight, a gentle velvety feel of fruit and lots of flavor. Almost carmine in color, one feels aromas of iris, violets, peaches and black currants and the wine, which should be served at about 13 degrees Celsius, is ideal with leg of lamb, chicken, veal and pork.
  
  
• Chiroubles is a wine that is very popular within France but for reasons nobody understands has never become popular in America or England. The wines of Chiroubles are a softer, even more gently fruity version of Fleurie, and at their best develop real delicacy and finesse.

To read about travelling and dining in Beaujolais country, click here.

© Daniel Rogov