Many years ago, when Oscar Wilde was dining in a luxurious London restaurant, he shocked his companions when he picked up a lamb chop with his fingers and began to eat it. Realizing that people were looking at him disapprovingly, Wilde returned their glance and remarked "You poor souls, have you completely forgotten that eating is supposed to be fun?" Wilde was correct. Linen napkins, fine crystal glasses and heavy, expensive silverware definitely have their place in luxurious, civilized living but there is a time to relax, put aside formalities and simply enjoy one's food.

There is nothing new about eating with the fingers. In fact, even though forks were introduced the members of the Italian nobility in the 15th century, their use did not become common until the 1700s. There are still good reasons for occasionally eating with the fingers. First of all, eating with the fingers is sensual and liberating. Second, some foods simply defy the knife and fork. There is simply no way, for example, to eat a chicken wing with a fork and knife. And who would be foolish enough to try to use anything but the fingers when eating corn on the cob.

Craig Claiborne, in his delightful "Elements of Etiquette" provides a long list of things that may be eaten with the fingers. The list includes asparagus (so hosts should not cover the base of the spears with sauce); crisp slices of bacon; spareribs, hamburgers on rolls; charcoal roasted chicken; grilled corn, spare ribs and nearly any other barbecued foods. Also included are strawberries that are served whole; clams and oysters; fried chicken; frogs' legs; lobsters and crabs in the shell; corn on the cob; and all bite sized desserts (but under no circumstances should a piece of cake or pie be treated as one would a cookie or a petit-four). Those who have not mastered the art of using chopsticks will be pleased to know that even in Japan it is perfectly acceptable to eat sushi with the fingers. I would add to Clairborne's list grilled and fried shrimps which always taste better when eaten with the fingers and chips, but only if eaten one at a time.

More than the sheer pleasure of dining, however, there is something remarkably sociable about eating with the fingers, and there is no reason why we cannot occasionally indulge ourselves by inviting friends to dinner and serving an entire meal with neither knives or forks on the table. That eating with the fingers can be great fun is beyond question. That does not mean, however, that we should put good manners aside. If serving foods appropriate for the fingers plenty of napkins should be available as should plates on which diners can put chicken bones, shrimp tails or whatever other left-overs remain. Your guests will think you especially considerate if you supply them with finger bowls.

To prepare a finger bowl, partially fill a small bowl with lukewarm water and, if you wish, float a rose leaf or very thin lemon slice in the water. Place the finger bowl in the center of a larger plate and near the edge of the plate place a neatly folded napkin.

To use a finger bowl, take the napkin off the plate and place it to the left of the saucer. Dip the fingers in the water gently and swish them around. Wipe your fingers with the napkin you have been using throughout the meal, fold it casually and place it on the rim of the bowl. Place the clean napkin on your lap and continue using it through the rest of the meal. I agree with Craig Claiborne that the use of perfumed napkins is ostentatious and thus vulgar.

Each of the following dishes will prove ideal for eating with the fingers. The recipes are designed to serve 6 - 8.

Shrimp Pancakes

olive oil as needed
1 large onion, chopped finely
6 Tablespoons parsley, chopped very finely
1/4 teaspoon hot paprika or more to taste
6 Tbsp. flour
1 tsp. each baking powder and salt
1/4 kilo shrimps, shelled and chopped finely

In a large heavy skillet heat 2 Tbsp. of the oil and in this saute the onion and parsley until the onion is translucent. Stir in the paprika and remove from the flame.

In a mixing bowl combine the four, baking powder, salt and enough water to make a liquid batter (about 1 cup). Add the sauteed onions and the shrimp and mix well.

In a heavy skillet heat enough oil to cover the pan 1/2 cm. deep. When the oil begins to smoke drop in the batter by the tablespoon, flattening the pancakes into 5 cm. rounds with the back of a spoon that has first been dipped into the hot oil. Fry until lightly golden on both sides, turning once. Drain on paper toweling and serve immediately.

Egg Canapes

8 hard boiled eggs, halved lengthwise
6 Tbsp. mayonnaise
16 cooked shrimp
16 pitted olives
16 rolled anchovies

On each egg half spoon 1 teaspoons of the mayonnaise. In the center of each egg place a toothpick and on these spear a shrimp, an olive and an anchovy. Serve cold or at room temperature.

Anchovy Stuffed Olives

1/2 kilo large black olives
115 gr. anchovy fillets
3 Tablespoons olive oil
1 Tablespoon white vinegar
1/2 teaspoon each tarragon and black pepper

Pit the olives and fill each with an anchovy filet. Place on a serving plate.

Combine the oil, vinegar, tarragon and pepper, mixing well. Sprinkle the mixture over the stuffed olives. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate at least 4 - 6 hours. Serve well chilled.

Bean Cakes

1/2 kilo chickpeas or ful beans (Egyptian brown beans)
1/4 cup parsley, minced
2 Tbsp. onion, minced
2 - 3 cloves garlic, minced
2 Tbsp. flour
2 eggs, beaten lightly
1 Tbsp. salt
olive or corn oil for frying

Soak the beans overnight in cold water. Drain, cover with cold water, add the salt and simmer until the beans are done but still firm (about 45 minutes). Drain, reserving the water.

Mix the beans together with the parsley, onion and garlic and puree through a strainer, adding just enough of the reserved water to prevent sticking. Blend the flour together with the eggs and mix into the beans.

In a heavy skillet heat about 2 1/2 cm. of oil and into this drop the mixture by heaping tablespoonfuls. Fry, turning occasionally until both sides are golden and crusty. Drain on paper toweling and serve hot.

Stuffed Grape Leaves (Dolmadakia)

36 grape leaves
1 - 2 teaspoons olive oil
1 small onion, chopped finely
1 teaspoon parsley, chopped
1 1/2 cups cooked rice
1/2 tsp. each dried mint and dill
1/4 tsp. each salt, pepper and allspice
juice of 3 - 4 lemons
1 - 2 cups chicken stock for possible additions to the rice mixture, see note below

Put the vine leaves in a large amount of lightly salted water. Slowly bring to a boil and let boil gently for 2 - 3 minutes. Quickly plunge the leaves into cold water and then let the water drip off. Lay the leaves on a board, laying them flat with the outer side down.

In a small skillet with 1 teaspoon of olive oil saute the onions and parsley until the onions are golden. Remove from the flame and mix in the rice, mint, dill, salt, pepper and allspice. If the mixture is overly dry, add a bit more olive oil.

On each leaf place a heaping teaspoonful of the rice mixture and then roll the leaf, tucking in the ends as you roll. Squeeze the finished rolls gently in the hand and, when all of the leaves are ready place them, side by side, in a shallow pan. Squeeze over the lemon juice and add enough stock to come half way up the rolled leaves. Cover with a small plate which rests on top of the dolmadakia and bring to a boil. Reduce the flame, cover the pot and let simmer gently for about 1/2 hour.

With a slotted spoon remove the stuffed leaves from the liquid and refrigerate, covered, until well chilled. Serve cold.

Note: Possible additions: 2 teaspoons pine nuts; 2 - 3 oz (55 - 85 gr.) lightly browned ground beef; or 2 tsp. seedless raisins.

Spiced Grilled Chicken
An Indonesian recipe

250 grams tinned coconut
2 large onions, chopped coarsely
4 - 6 red chili peppers, seeded
4 - 6 cloves garlic, chopped
2 tsp. fresh ginger, grated
12 black peppercorns
2 tsp. salt
1/4 tsp. turmeric
2 chickens, about 1 1/2 kilos each, cut in convenient service pieces
2 lemon leaves if available
1/2 tsp. lemon rind, grated

Place the coconut in a bowl and pour over 3 cups of boiling chicken stock. Let stand for 1 hour and then strain the mixture through a double layer of muslin cloth, squeezing all of the liquids out of the coconut meat. Reserve the liquids. (The coconut meat may be stored and used in other recipes).

Using a mortar and pestle or a blender, grind together the onion, chili peppers, garlic, ginger, peppercorns, salt and turmeric until a smooth paste is formed. \

Wash the chicken pieces under cold running water and then pat dry with paper toweling. Rub the chicken pieces with the ground spice mixture and let stand for 1 hour.

In a large heavy skillet combine the coconut liquids, lemon rind and lemon leaves and bring to the boil. To this add the chicken pieces, reduce the flame and let simmer gently until the chicken is cooked through and the liquids evaporated. Immediately before serving grill the chicken over hot coals or under a hot broiler, basting frequently with the spice mixture. Serve hot.

Grilled Lamb Chops

12 lamb chops, about 4 cm. thick
salt and pepper to taste
1/4 cup olive oil
1 large onion, chopped finely
3 Tbsp. parsley, chopped
1 Tbsp. lemon peel, chopped finely
1/4 cup lemon juice

Trim the excess fat off the chops and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Brush the chops with oil and arrange the chops over hot charcoals or on an oiled rack under a hot broiler. Turn after 3 - 4 minutes and cook on the second side, avoiding overcooking. Arrange the chops on a preheated serving platter and sprinkle over the onion, parsley and lemon peel. Over all sprinkle the lemon juice. Serve hot.

Potato Pancakes

6 large potatoes, peeled and grated about
1 cup chicken fat
1 large onion, grated
1 large apple, peeled, cored and grated
2 eggs, separated
1/4 tsp. sugar
2 - 3 Tbsp. matzo meal or flour
2 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. white pepper
applesauce or sour cream for serving (optional)

Combine the potatoes, onion and apple and place the mixture, a large handful at a time, into a towel or cheesecloth and squeeze out as much moisture as possible.

Combine the potato mixture with the egg yolks, sugar and just enough flour to thicken the mixture to the consistency of cooked oatmeal. Add the salt and pepper and mix well.

Beat the egg whites stiff and fold these into the mixture.

In a large heavy skillet heat the chicken fat (there should be about 1 cm. of fat in the skillet) and into this drop the potato mixture, a tablespoon at a time. Fry over a medium flame until the first side has browned (about 5 - 7 minutes), and then turn and brown the second side. Drain on paper toweling, sprinkle over with salt to taste and if desired, serve with applesauce or sour cream.

Stuffed Dates
A Moroccan recipe

1 1/2 cups almonds, peeled and ground finely
1 1/2 cups sugar
2 egg whites
3/4 kilo dates, pitted
1/2 cup confectioners' sugar

Mix together the ground almonds, sugar and egg whites. Put this mixture into a skillet and cook over a low flame, stirring constantly, until the mixture becomes sticky. Add 1 1/2 teaspoons of water and cook for another minute. Remove from the flame and let cool for several minutes. With this stuffing fill the dates and then roll them in confectioners' sugar. Serve hot or cold.

Coconut Fritters
An Indonesian recipe

3/4 cup brown sugar
1 1/2 cups rice flour
1/8 tsp. each baking soda and salt
3/4 cup flaked coconut
corn oil for deep frying

In a saucepan combine the sugar with 3 cups of water and cook over a medium flame, stirring, until the mixture is syrup-like. Remove this syrup from the flame and let stand 1 - 2 hours.

Sift together the rice flour, baking soda and salt into a bowl. Stir in the syrup and the coconut and let stand 2 hours longer.

Heat oil in a deep heavy skillet at least 2« cm. deep until very hot and into this drop the batter, by tablespoonfuls. Fry until browned on both sides.

The Ultimate Finger Food

When chef Woutrous Lap was in charge of the kitchens at the Sheraton Hotel in Libraville in the Congo, a group of revolutionaries invaded the hotel. Each of the hotel employees was forced to sit at a small table in the lobby and seated at the same table with Lap was a guerrilla armed with a Russian AK47 rifle. Knowing that it is always best to try and get your captor to know you as an individual rather than as merely a hostage, Lap tried to make conversation with the armed African.

At first, the man would not say a word, but finally, after he learned that Lap was the hotel's chef, he started to talk about the dining habits of his own village, where it seemed he was also considered a master cook. It also turned out that cannibalism was an accepted way of life in the cook's village. This, of course made Lap a bit nervous but he relaxed when the man told him that he did not have to worry because "white men have a bitter taste". Later, after Lap had described some of the dishes he especially liked to cook, the man decided to share a secret with him and told him that most of the people in his village thought that one of the very best parts of a human is the fingers, "because they can be dried, tucked in pocket and they make for such good nibbling". Although the incident ended happily when the revolutionaries left the hotel several hours later without harming anyone, Lap has not added this particular kind of finger food to his own repertoire of specialties.

© Daniel Rogov