As there is a fair amount of confusion when and where the first wheel was invented, so it is with the history of eiswein (literally "ice wine"). Although most historians and archaeologists involved with oenology know that the first wines of this type "probably" originated in Germany, they cannot tell us with any certainty at all who was the first to make them or in what century they first appeared. To show how far they are from agreement, some claim these wines first appeared in Germany's Rhineland Platintate as early as the ninth century and others are equally convinced that they made their debut in Austria as recently as the twelfth century. What is known is that these wines are traditionally made by allowing grapes to freeze on the vine and only when the air temperature ranges from minus ten to minus thirteen degrees Celsius are the frozen grapes picked by hand. The grapes are pressed while still frozen so that the frozen water crystals remain in the press while the ice cold concentrated juice (the must) of the grapes themselves which freezes at an even lower temperature runs off to the fermentation vats. This freezing process dehydrates the grapes and concentrates their sugars and acids and this in turn intensifies and adds complexity to the flavors of the wines that will be made from them. After pressing, the wine is fermented for several months in small oak barrels and the resulting wines are intensely sweet and flavorful, with lots of natural acids to make them lively.
Starting in the 1960s, German and Austrian ice wines began to attain high international acclaim, and about a decade later the ice wines of Canada surprised the world by their excellence and now, despite their invariably high prices, they are sought out with great diligence. Even those Americans south of the Canadian border have gotten into the game and several of their ice wines are alsowell worth trying. Following are reviews of several of these wines I have recently tasted or retasted (including one from Israel), all of which show the great charms inherent in these wines.
Egon Muller, Riesling, Eiswein, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Scharzhofberger, 1996: Deep golden colored, this full bodied eiswine has a nearly ideal combination between hyper-sweetness and refreshing acidity, along with lemon-lime, citrus peel and minerals. A long spicy finish that cannot help but enchant. One meant for early drinking or medium term cellaring, the wine should cellar comfortably until 2020. Score 96+. (Tasted 19 May 1999)

Krebs-Grode, Eiswein, Auxerrois, Eiswein Rheinhessen, 1998: Medium bodied, with abundant spices on a deliciously sweet background of pineapples, lime and apricots and with generous hints of sweet cream and minerals, this superbly balanced and remarkably elegant wine has flavors that linger seemingly without end. Best drinking 2002 - 2012. Score 96. (Tasted 9 Mar 2001)

Inniskillin, Ice Wine, 2001: Traditional ice wine, easily comparable to the best of Germany, this deeply sweet but remarkably well balanced wine and elegant wine almost attacks you with luxurious flavors of peaches, litchis, pears in the way of fruits and then honey, cinnamon and candied fruits on the long finish. Full bodied, with just the right amount of natural acidity, the wine is drinking nicely even now but should cellar comfortably until 2005 - 2006. Score 94.

Columbia Crest, Semillon Ice Wine, Reserve, 1998: Full bodied, with intense honeyed sweetness and with delicious fig and summer fruits matched nicely by mocha and spiced roasted nut flavors and aromas. Excellent balance between fruits, sweetness and acidity and a very long finish add enormously to the charm of the wine. Drink 2002 - 2012 or longer. Score 94. (Tasted 25 Mar 2000)

Inniskillin, Ice Wine, Vidal, 1999: Even more delicious now than at my first tastings (16 Jul 2002), this full bodied, bronzed orange wine is now showing smooth, rich honeyed and apple sweetness together with aromas and flavors of dried apricots, yellow peaches and mangos, those overlayed comfortably by light cinnamon-ginger flavors. Long and mouthfilling, the wine is drinking beautifully now and promises to cellar well until 2010 - 2012. Revised Score 93. (Most recently tasted 5 Jul 2003)

Sepp Moser, Chardonnay, Eiswein, Kremstal, 1997: Deep golden in color this is a wine so thick that it seems to seep rather than pour slowly from the bottle. All of which is fine, for this remarkably full bodied ice wine has exquisite balance between honey, tropical fruits, raisins and spices in its flavors and aromas and with plenty of lively acid to keep it fresh and refreshing on the palate. One of the best from Moser in several years and a lovely accompaniment to cheese cake or the finest Gorgonzola cheese you can find. Drink now or in the next 5 - 6 years. Score 93.

Henry of Pelham, Riesling, Ice Wine, Niagara Penninsula, 2000: Deep golden straw with orange reflections, this medium to full bodied Canadian wine shows delicious honeyed apricot fruits together with orange peel and wild flower aromas and flavors. Excellent balance with plenty of natural acidity to set off the intense sweetness make the wine very drinkable now but cellarable until 2006 - 2008. Score 91. (Tasted 14 Feb 2003)

Forster Ungeheuer, Riesling Eiswein, Pfalz, 1997: Sweet but not syrupy, full bodied, rich and concentated, with plenty of acidity to make it refreshing and with aromas and flavors of citrus fruits, peaches and apricots, all overlayed with a hint of honey and with a petrol aromas that follow through on the palate, this is a delicious German wine, well worth slow sipping after dinner. Drink now if you must but the wine will be at its peak only in 2005 - 2006. Score 92.
Geisenheimer Rothenberg, Geheimrat Wegeler, Eiswein, Rheingau, 1994: Medium bodied and intense, with lemon, honey and peach aromas, this super-sweet wine has a honey like texture and an oily yet refreshingly acidic finish. Lovely, clean, thick with fruits and flavors, the wine has a good balancing acidity and flavorful finish. Drink now - 2010. Score 90.
Golan Heights Winery, Heightswine, 2001: Lively golden in color, this honeyed dessert wine (as always an appealing play on words on the English term "Ice Wine" and its German equivalent, "Eiswein") offers up a generous array of fruits yellow peaches, apricots, melon, orange marmalade and quince, all on a honeyed, floral and just spicy enough background. Made entirely from Gewurztraminer grapes, this well balanced, generous and elegant wine is drinking beautifully now but should cellar comfortably until 2006 - 2008. Score 91.
Valley Vineyards, Ice Wine, Vidal Blanc, Ohio River Valley, 2000: Remarkably full bodied for a wine made entirely from Vidal Blanc, this golden colored dessert wine offers many pleasures. With honey, vanilla and wild flowers on the nose and flavors, the wine is well balanced, the sweetness set off well by natural acidity that keeps the wine flavorful and refreshing. This is the first wine I have tasted from this winery, so generalizations are not in order, but this one is definitely worth trying, even at the rather expensive price of about $25 for a 375 ml. bottle. Drink now - 2003. Score 88+.

© Daniel Rogov