Considering that zuppa inglese is neither a soup nor English, it is not hard to conclude that few dishes have ever been as badly misnamed. Even though zuppa means "soup" in Italian, the dish, for reasons no one seems to have an explanation for, is a cake. As to the English connection, chef Giuliano Bugialli suggests that this came about because the liqueur originally used in the recipe, Alkermes di Firenze, has precisely the same color as that used in the British flag. Interestingly, however, the English did profit from the recipe. The cake used in making Zuppa Inglese is called bocca di dama in Italian, biscuit Italien in French and sponge cake by Americans. The English, however, have adopted it as their own. So, for that matter, have many Europeans, who refer to it as "English cake". Because alkermes liqueur is now only rarely available, modern recipes such as the one that follows call for the use of Marsala wine.

Zuppa Inglese

For the Zabaglionecream:
8 egg yolks
1/4 cup sugar
4 tsp. potato starch or flour
1 cup dry or sweet Marsala wine

For the cake:
1 round or rectangular sponge cake, cut in 3 layers
1 cup rum
3 tbs. glazed fruits
3 egg whites, beaten stiff
4 Tbsp. sugar
1 cube of sugar soaked in brandy for serving

To make the Zabaglione cream: Place the egg yolks in a glass bowl and add the sugar and potato starch. Stir with a wooden spoon, always stirring in the same direction, until the sugar is completely dissolved and the egg yolks are a light golden color. Slowly add the Marsala, mixing constantly, and then transfer the contents of the bowl to the top part of the double boiler.

Put water in the bottom of the double boiler and bring to a boil. Once the water is boiling, insert the top part and stir continuously with a wooden spoon, always stirring in the same direction. Continue stirring just until the mixture is on the verge of boiling and then immediately remove from the heat. Under no circumstances should the mixture be allowed to boil. Stir for 2 - 3 minutes longer and then pour the zabaglione into a glass bowl to cool (about 1 hour).

To assemble the cake: Place the bottom layer of the sponge cake in an oven-proof serving dish and over this pour 1/3 of the rum and spread 1/2 of the Zabaglione cream. Add the second layer and repeat the process with 1/3 of the rum and the remaining cream. Cover with the third layer of cake and pour over the remaining rum. Over this distribute the glazed fruits.

To the beaten egg whites add the sugar and beat again. Pile the egg whites on the cake and bake in an oven that has been preheated to 150 degrees Celsius (300 Fahrenheit) for 20 minutes. Allow to cool. Serve with a lump of sugar soaked in brandy on top and flame the sugar cube. (Serves 6 - 8).

© Daniel Rogov